A Myanmar town lies in shambles as both sides in civil war vie for control

KYAUKME Myanmar AP Ten days after it was recaptured by Myanmar s military regime the town of Kyaukme stands eerily silent Schools have reopened but the town s once-busy sphere is mostly empty Vendors at selected stalls closed them at the sight of visiting journalists visibly nervous The once-thriving town in Myanmar s Shan State is in shambles an Associated Press journalist endorsed on Friday in a rare visit to the war-torn area allowed by the country s military governing body The army allowed an AP photographer to join a trip supervised by pro-military Myanmar media the only representative of foreign media who was permitted to do so The military doesn t allow a free press and bars journalists from entering conflict zones independently The journalists saw the charred wreckage of official buildings such as the courthouse police station and cabinet housing Much of the area around the town s hospital was destroyed with its operations temporarily shifted to a nearby Chinese temple At least one of the town s fire engines was burnt out Civilian houses seemed to be mostly unscathed except those near damaged official buildings but the majority of the town s original population of had fled The ethnic militia that previously controlled the town accused the army of causing the damage with airstrikes and heavy weapons while the administration soldiers who took over the town commented the militia destroyed structures as it retreated Because of its strategic location on a highway connecting central Myanmar to China Kyaukme has been much fought over About kilometers miles northeast of Mandalay the country s second-largest city it has changed hands twice since the army in ousted the elected leadership of Aung San Suu Kyi setting off the current civil war between the military leadership and an alliance of militias representing ethnic minorities and pro-democracy activists Kyaukme was captured by the Ta ang National Liberation Army in August amid a wave of victories by opponents of military rule that left them apparently in control of the bulk of the country s territory The TNLA is the guerrilla army of the Palaung ethnic minority The town fell back into the hands of the military establishment on Oct after a three-week battle in a important preeminence for governing body forces The army has mounted a succession of prosperous offensives in latest months ahead of elections set for the end of the year Critics say the polls will be neither free nor fair but the army hopes that high turnout will help legitimize the vote Before attacking Kyaukme the army in July recaptured the town of Nawnghkio considered a gateway to Myanmar s heartland because it sits at the crossroads of Myanmar s eastern hills and its central flatlands From there the kilometers miles to Kyaukme is flanked by buildings damaged by bombs and bullets or pummeled into debris Army checkpoints manned by newly drafted soldiers stand every to meters yards along the highway A major bridge was damaged but remains standing and is under repair The agents blocked journalists access to selected residential areas which they declared were dangerous There are still land mines that haven t been cleared in parts of the neighborhood mentioned Capt Wai Yan Kyaw who was stationed at one of the town s gates The journalists saw unexploded ordnance including a mortar shell sunk into the ground inside the compound of a Buddhist monastery Locals who spoke to the AP reported that only a small part of the town s population had returned since its recapture A resident who had stayed behind during the fighting disclosed that the overwhelming majority fled after fighting broke out last year and those who stayed like him did so because they couldn t afford to leave He spoke on condition of anonymity to avoid harassment from the officers Kyaukme is near the front line of the continuing army offensive with soldiers saying they believe TNLA forces are in the hills just kilometers miles away A motorbike taxi driver in his mid- s who also solicited not to be named for his own assurance announced he inferred residents would be unwilling to return until the army recaptures more nearby towns People are unwilling to live near the front line explained the driver who came back on Tuesday Source